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Intriguing Israel: Biblical echoes, Bauhaus buildings and breakfast in tempting Tel Aviv
Primo Levi isn’t an obvious choice for a light beach read. But this is Tel Aviv, and the beach is a mixture of the lowbrow and the very highbrow indeed.
Girls are sashaying past to the welcoming bellows of the lifeguard’s Tannoy, others are running barefoot, and plenty more are reading serious tomes. The sun is out, there are acres of sand to relax into and the sea ruffles away.
This is as far east as the Mediterranean will stretch, so there’s enough swell to surf – just – and a dedicated line of boys in wetsuits wait for the smallest riff.
The clean and tidy beach is lined with cafes and rows of red plastic chairs. Here young couples, friends, families spanning the generations gather, sporting everything from woolly jumpers to bikinis. Planes criss-cross the skyline and the Israeli coastguard chugs up and down day and night.
Security is understandably tight in Israel, and in the airport particularly, though the staff are helpful and efficient. On the way out, you absolutely must leave plenty of time to get through all the checks.
Ben Gurion airport’s new terminal (opened in 2004) is of extraordinary design – clad in the same stone as the Wailing Wall in Jerusalem – but you still won’t want to spend the night there.
I am staying in the Dan Panorama, which has a Seventies business-like feel, but is brilliantly placed for the beach and Jaffa.
The lighthouse belonging to this ancient port, which dates from Biblical times, is visible from my bedroom window. The oldest part the city dates from 1909 and is almost directly behind the hotel.
Breakfast in the Dan Panorama is an event of epic portions. The buffet begins at one end with cakes, pastries, puddings, and ends with Nile perch, salads and shakshuka (an Israeli dish of tomatoes and eggs). Portions are enormous – troughs of hummus, giant herby salads and the crispest falafel.
As our waiter puts it: ‘We like to think big.’
But people aren’t, as you might assume, fat, but fit. They seem to take lots of exercise. The weekend I am here, Tel Aviv is hosting a marathon, half-marathon and in-line skating event.
I am here with two friends to run the marathon. We line up at 6.30am (to avoid the heat) and the city’s mayor is there to welcome visitors from 38 countries. The mood is as buoyant as runners in springy trainers limber up. The finish line is only a stumble from the beach. Thank goodness.
A friend described Tel Aviv as New York on sea. I wouldn’t go that far, but it has some of that city’s energy. Tel Aviv is known for its bars, clubs and ad-hoc roof parties. High-rise hotels, experimental in design, line the coast, Miami-style. This is one of the great Bauhaus cities of the world.
It’s also full of museums and galleries – and this year is dedicated to art. The new Tel Aviv Musuem of Art, which hosts the world’s largest collection of Israeli art, makes a statement in a smart airy square.
The angular gallery is currently hosting an exhibition by German artist Anselm Kiefer on Jewish tradition, faith, mysticism and literature. Designed specifically for the space and exploring the themes through large and muted canvasses, it’s as challenging as it sounds.
But there are more accessible offerings. The gallery is within walking distance of Rothschild Boulevard, a wide, expensive-looking street known for its Bauhaus architecture, it’s tree-lined central boulevard just made for strolling and sipping. A group of grannies in their wheelchairs are playing an intense game of cards, their grandchildren messing about with balloons at their feet.
For a grungier feel, try the Gan Hahashmal area, home to artist’s collectives, cool cafes and basement clubs. This area is tipped to be the next big thing.
Saturdays – the Sabbath in Tel Aviv – have the feel of our lost Sundays. They are carefree. No shops are open, and few cafes. We find one in old Tel Aviv, which is scruffy – with hectic power cables and yawning building sites, but still attractive and quiet. Most people head to the beach. And in the evening the promenade buzzes. Groups of teens hang out on the rocks.
The nightclub, Dolphinarium, which was bombed in June 2001, sits sad and empty on the front. There’s a memorial to the 21 youngsters who died there that evening and a scattering of flowers with an old jacket and a candle.
But life carries on briskly around it. On the way to Jaffa is the wonderful restaurant, Manta Ray, considered to be one of the best in Israel. Here, fish is cooked so beautifully you almost forget to enjoy the view. It’s right on the edge, and has big windows that let in the sight and sound of the sea.
Across the busy main road is The Old Railway Station, which is exactly what the name suggests, complete with now-defunct track and carriages, but with the addition of restaurants and cocktail bars where you can drink sitting beneath a lantern-lit tree. We even find a bar serving prawns wrapped in parma ham. ‘That would be a problem in Jerusalem,’ the barman tells us.
But if you’d prefer to be cossetted by the warmth of ancient bricks, Jaffa has several restaurants and lots of pretty, arched walkways that lead you into shops selling crafty earrings and oil paintings. This part of town feels more like a Greek island.
People say that Tel Aviv and Israel are like two separate countries. Some might find that reassuring; others will welcome travelling to a place that offers so extraordinarily varied and unusual a holiday.
Top 5: Archaeology experiences in Jerusalem
With such a rich and fascinating history, there’s no shortage of historical sites to check out in Jerusalem.
With its long and turbulent history, Jerusalem is a fascinating place for those interested in archaeology. Below are just some of the top archaeology hotspots to get you started.
1. City of David
The City of David is believed to be where King David laid the foundations for the city of Jerusalem around 1000 BC. Situated deep below ground in the Arab village of Silwan outside the Old City’s Dung Gate, the City of David holds the remains of the once-grand citadel where a dynasty of Judean kings once ruled.
Visitors will enjoy the tours that reveal up-to-date archaeological finds, and end at the Gihon Spring, where according to tradition Solomon was anointed king. Don’t miss out on wading through the waters of the 2,700-year-old Hezekiah’s Tunnel.
Address: Silwan, east Jerusalem
Phone: (02) 626-2341
2. Jerusalem Archaeological Park and Davidson Center
Adjacent to the Western Wall of the Temple Mount, the Jerusalem Archaeological Park features remains of the various periods throughout Jerusalem’s history. The Davidson Center in the Park offers computerized virtual models and films and provides context to the findings.
Bear in mind that guided tours of the Park and the virtual models must be reserved in advance.
Address: Temple Mount Excavations, Old City
Phone: (02) 627-7550
3. Rockefeller Archaeological Museum
The Rockefeller Archaeological Museum is found in a beautiful building housing a brilliant collection of antiquities unearthed in the Holy Land during the British Mandate period.
The artifacts are displayed chronologically, the oldest dating back two million years. Some of the more exciting finds include original 8th-century wooden panels from the al-Aqsa Mosque and 12th-century marble lintels from the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. The Israel Museum runs a shuttle to the Museum and a guided tour on Mondays and Wednesday at 11 a.m.
Address: 27 Sultan Suliman Street
Phone: (02) 670-8011
4. Bible Lands Museum
Situated in the heart of Museum Row in Givat Ram, the Bible Lands Museum offers visitors the unique opportunity to explore the history of the cultures of the Bible. The museum’s galleries display thousands of artifacts documenting the various peoples that occupied the region in Biblical times, including the Canaanites, ancient Egyptians, Phoenicians, Persians and Philistines.
Objects on display include coins, idols, pottery, weapons, statues, seals and documents. The Museum offers several fun and educational tours and programs for children.
Address: 25 Granot Street, Givat Ram
Phone: (02) 561-1066
5. Tower of David
The Tower of David, also known as David’s Citadel, rests on the ruins of fortifications made by David, the ancient King of Israel. Today’s tower, located near the Jaffa Gate to the Old City, was originally built in the second century BC to strategically strengthen the city’s defenses and was destroyed and rebuilt repeatedly over the following centuries.
The Tower of David brings to life Jerusalem’s history and offers exhibitions and activities for all ages. Its courtyard houses significant archaeological ruins, some dating back almost 3,000 years.
Address: Jaffa Gate, Old City
Phone: (02) 626-5333
iTravelJerusalem.com is a new online international travel portal offering all the latest information on things to do, places to eat and places to stay in Jerusalem.
EU, Israel ink ‘open skies’ deal
Israel and the European Union have finalized an ‘open skies’ agreement, which will allow all European airlines to operate direct lines to Israel, and allow Israel to do the same across EU-member nations’ skies. (Ynet)
Tel Aviv makes Traveler’s Digest top 10 sexy cities
US’ Traveler’s Digest rates Tel Aviv at number 10 spot for ‘best looking men’ and number seven spot for ‘world’s hottest women.’ Stockholm, Kiev in number one spots
Male and female tourists looking for a destination with beautiful scenery and good looking residents need look no further than Tel Aviv, Israel, according to the US’ Traveler’s Digest site.
An article listing the ‘Cities with the World’s Best Looking Men’ put Tel Aviv in the number 10 spot. Tel Aviv was also garnered a top 10 spot on the list of ‘Cities with the World’s Hottest Women,’ coming in at number seven.
The Digest cites Tel Aviv as a city with “enviable proximity to the Mediterranean Sea, artistic Bauhaus architecture, high-end dining, and a contemporary cultural scene, Tel Aviv has become a hot spot for trendsetters worldwide.
“Local cuties flaunt their fit bodies – made all the better by their year-round tans- at any of the numerous beaches and cafés found on the 10-mile seaside strip. In the evenings, you’ll find these guys dancing the night away at the trendiest venues in town. Reputed to be opinionated but ultimately marriage–minded, you could do worse.”
And as for the women, the digest notes that “Israel has some very beautiful women; there’s just something about dark features and green eyes that is exotic and appealing.
“Tel Aviv is the focal point of Israel’s youth culture and nightlife scene, so it makes sense that the most beautiful girls in the country can be found lounging on the city’s Mediterranean beaches and in its happening night spots.
“A word of caution though; in Israel women over the age of 18 are required to have served in the Israeli military. This means that you should be very careful before trying to pull a ‘fast one’.”
The number one city for good looking men is apparently Stockholm Sweden followed by New York, Amsterdam, Lisbon, Buenos Aires, Sydney, Madrid, Berlin and Milan
As for the women, the top spot went to Kiev in the Ukraine, with Stockholm taking second place. The list also included New York, Buenos Aires, Varna, Moscow, Amsterdam, Seoul and Montreal respectively.
Noa Rubinstein contributed to the report
Source: Ynetnews.com
For all of you heading to TLV for the first time: A guide for Tel Aviv Virgins…
Are you a Tel Aviv virgin? I can’t pay for you to come here, but if and when you do, I will do my holy best to speed your initiation to this Mediterranean capital of cool.
Are you taking notes?
1) Take your time…if you want. Like many large cities, Tel Aviv is the kind of place you can dip into for a few hours or stay much longer, but even a short visit can give you a sense of what makes the beachy, boisterous city tick. Begin by exploring the neighborhoods and you’ll get a sense of how Tel Aviv balances, sometimes crazily, the old and new. The rhythm is frenzied but unhurried: whether that’s intrinsically Middle Eastern or unique to Tel Aviv may be up to each visitor to decide.
2) Realize that Tel Aviv is a 24-hour city, which means that if you get up late you’ll be right on time. In fact, one of the most quintessentially Tel Avivan things to do is linger over a leisurely breakfast, which on most days is for all intents and purposes brunch. Expect a lot of great coffee and fresh-squeezed orange juice just about anywhere you go. And what pancakes are to American diners, shakshuka is to tables in Tel Aviv. Most cafes serve the dish, which centers on two poached eggs in a zesty tomato stew with onions and a touch of pepper. Yum!
3) Skip the museums. That’s what Jerusalem’s for. But if you do want to explore culture, remember that Tel Aviv does have an incredible array of museums. My favorite is this one.
4) Hit the shops. Tel Aviv is the commercial capital of Israel and a great shopping city. For a swift introduction to some of the leading Israeli designers, head to the HaTachana marketplace, an old railway station that’s been transformed into a breezy outdoor mall with a fantastic assortment of boutiques and restaurants. Allow 2 hours to check out all the stores, including the MadeinTLV souvenir emporium. It’s located at the entrance, in the former train depot.
4) Soak up the Bauhaus. Bauhaus is a functional style of architecture that took off in he 1930s and is noted for its curvilinear forms. Its concentration of white Bauhaus buildings gives Tel Aviv the nickname “The White City” and was designated as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 2003. Streets to focus on are Bialik and Rothschild Boulevard, but Bauhaus buildings are found all over the city. If it’s your first time in Tel Aviv, consider taking a guided walking tour of the central Bauhaus district. Tours last about two hours and cost $15. Or dispense with the (very interesting) archi-details and just wander on your own.
6) Get a sunburn. Any visit to Tel Aviv would be incomplete without experiencing the city’s famous seaside promenade and beaches. Different sections of the beach go by different names, such as Frishman and Trumpeldor, but it’s all essentially one long line of sand from the Port area in the north to Jaffa in the south. Recuperate from your sunburn at any number of cafes.
7) Learn how to say betay’avon! If the beach is where Tel Aviv goes to relax, the city’s myriad bars andrestaurants are where they go to fuel up. To experience the cosmopolitan flavor of Tel Aviv at its best, try a trendy restaurant like power chef Jonathan Roshveld’s Tapas Ahad Ha’am, or go for a sexy meal at Raphael.
What? You’re no Tel Aviv virgin, you say? OK. Take it to the next level by clicking here
Source: Goisrael.about.com
VIDEO: Funny new Ad by Israeli Online Gay Friendly Rental site ‘Gay-Ville’
www.gay-ville.com – What you see is what you get. The only gay friendly rental site.
Got an apartment? Add it to Gay-ville for extra income!
Want to travel cheaply? Book your next trip on Gay-ville!
Produced by Eliad Cohen
Directed, Filmed & Edited by Omer Tobi
Styling – Gili Algabi
Music Editing – Barak Ben-David
Special thanks to Eldar Lior from Tel Aviv Sports club!